One of My Favorite Garden Places … Snug Harbor Farm

As a gardener and photographer, there are many farm, gardens and cemeteries (yes – some of them are quite lovely!) I love to visit, but one of my favorites, is Snug Harbor Farm in Kennebunk, Maine.

Not only is their plant material beautiful and top notch, but the entire setting is a gardener’s paradise! I can walk around for hours … but usually the longer I linger, the more I go home with!

They propagate and grow most of their own plants, many of which are rare and tropical succulents. Every time I visit, I love to see which plants they’ve added and what they are doing with them! Plus they carry many of my favorite plants, Rosemary.

The farm uses some lovely gardening techniques including topiary training, propagation by cuttings and offer a plethora of container gardens and even terrariums … all done with sophistication and beauty. The Man knows each time I visit, I will be coming home with my trunk full of goodies!

I can spend hours just walking through the many greenhouses, talking with the staff (most of which I now know by name), and enjoying the farm’s scenery.

When these little ponies (I think they are Shetland Ponies) come right up to the fence, nuzzle my hand looking for a rub or a treat, I just can help but spend some time petting them! While the ponies are the largest animals at Snug Harbor, there are also peacocks, chickens, ducks, dogs and more! I mean, how much better can this place get?!

Look at these lovely white Bleeding Hearts! So delicate, and yet they stand out against the hostas and tulips … everywhere I look, I get inspired by the owner’s display gardens … which always leads to a ‘small‘ purchase, to The Man’s dismay.

One of the things I am planning for in my own garden is to add some espalier trained apple trees. We already have a few traditionally grown apple trees on our property, which I use to make and can apple butter, but I plan on adding some of these for some more structure!

I know I will be visiting Snug Harbor again very soon, since I can never stay away too long. I just had to share one of my favorite garden places with you on one of the first sunny days we’ve had this spring!

And I wish all the mothers out there a Happy Mother’s Day!

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Spring Garden Buds Blooming

It has been raining here for the past few days, and fogging up, and I am a bit anxious to get outside and garden now that the soil is warm, and the last of the trees and shrubs are beginning to leaf out.

So for now I consoling myself with propagating, growing my seedling, and some of my favorite garden bloom snapshots …

Mark Twain said of spring, “It’s spring fever. That is what the name of it is. And when you’ve got it, you want – oh, you don’t quite know what it is you do want, but it just fairly makes your heart ache, you want it so!”

Well, let me tell you, my heart and my hands are a ‘aching to get digging, but Mother Nature seems to have some different ideas … like a week more or rain! Grrrr!

Is it too much to hope for that maybe the weather man has it wrong?!

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Are Invasive Plants Nosing About Your Garden Beds?

The best way to control an invasive plant is never to plant one. Prevention really is the best control. This may seem obvious, but as you travel around Cumberland County, Maine, you will realize how far these invasive plants have wandered. An invasive plant can be any non-native species that, once introduced, thrives in its new habitat, expands aggressively, and overtakes native plants and their environment. Invasive plants can be particularly aggressive when first introduced to a new site, as the fresh habitat’s insects, diseases and wildlife do not typically keep the plants’ growth in check. While invasive plants are disruptive in all environments, they are especially threatening to ecosystems, which are home to rare native plants, such as forests, wetlands, lakes, streams, sand dunes, and serpentine soils.

It is important to understand what constitutes an invasive plant. Typical characteristics of an invasive plant include: high adaptability, prolific propagation and seed production, rapid growth from vegetative phase to flower and seed, tolerance of a wide variety of soil types and weather, ease of spread through wind, water, wildlife and even human foot-traffic. Most invasive plants do not arrive without human interference. While some invasives land themselves in new habitats by accidents such as overseas shipments or seed travel, many are still purposely selected, by misguided gardeners, and grown for their unique and desirable attributes. Unfortunately many invasive plants, like the Mulitflora Rose (Rosa multiflora), are aesthetically pleasing, exceptionally hardy, exhibit rapid growth and tolerate a wide array of environments, essentially outcompeting native plants for space, water, nutrients and light. And it is because of their high adaptability, rapid growth and high tolerance that these plants ruthlessly choke, crowd-out and inhibit native plants’ growth such that they eventually dominate and eradicate them.

According to the UGA Center for Invasive species and Ecosystem Health, which processes the data from the Early Detection and Distribution Mapping System (EDDMapS.org), there are 333 invasive plant species identified growing in Cumberland County, the greatest number of species reported within the state of Maine. Learning to identify local invasive plant species is one of the first things you can do in your garden. In Maine the top ten invasive plant species include (listed from most to least abundant): Japanese Knotweed (Fallopia japonica), Oriental or Asiatic Bittersweet (Celastrus orbiculatus), Norway Maple (Acer platanoides), Multiflora (Rosa multiflora), Rose Morrow’s Honeysuckle (Lonicera morrowii), Japanese Barberry (Berberis thunbergii), Exotic Bush Honeysuckles (L. mackii, L. tartarica and L. x bella Zabel), Glossy Buckthorn (Frangula alnus), Purple Loosestrife (Lythrum salicaria) and Reed Canarygrass (Phalaris arundinacea).

When the time comes for designing your garden or landscaping your property, you should use only non-invasive plants. Purchasing native plants from your local garden center, and encouraging them to carry more native plants, will not only improve your garden, but also your neighbors’. Educating fellow gardeners and friends about the importance of invasive plant prevention and the promotion of native species will also help our ecosystems stay healthy. By leaving natural habitats and landscapes undisturbed, and growing native plants in place of some of those undesirable invaders, you will be positively affecting your community. For example, Japanese Knotweed (F. japonica), which once established is one of the most difficult invasive plants to eradicate, should never be planted or grown. Instead, by substituting New England Aster (Aster novae-angliae), Blue False Indigo (Baptisia australis), Sweet Joe-Pye-Weed (Eupatorium purpureum) or Queen-of-the-Prairie (Filipendula rubra), you are helping prevent the spread of this robust perennial. Native alternatives are a great way to encourage healthy gardens and plant diversity. Some other non-invasive, native substitutes you may consider include: The Sugar Maple (A. saccharum) for the Norway (A. platanoides), Chokeberry (Aronia arbutifolia) instead of Japanese Barberry (B. thunbergii), Highbush blueberry (Vaccinium corymbosum) for Burning Bush (Euonymus alatus), and Liatris (Liatris spicata) or Lupine (Lupinus polyphyllus) for that ever-so-determined Purple Loosestrife (L. salicaria).

Now the question comes, what do I do if I have an invasive plant on my property? First, you need to remove any invasive plant from your garden. Even if the invasive plant is not yet a problem, it should still be disposed of because in time these plants will grow and spread beyond your control. When removing the offending plant, it is important you have removed all traces, including the roots, from the soil, otherwise the plant will grow back even hardier. And if you have an infamous, stubborn, invasive, such as Japanese knotweed (F. japonica) you actually should not dig up the roots, since this will only result in root fragments being dispersed throughout the soil and lead to many new plants. Instead, you need to be diligent and cut down the stalks repeatedly (3 or more times) throughout the season, and apply glyphosate after each cutting to the lingering stalk stumps. An average Multiflora rose (R. multiflora) infestation is best controlled immediately by repeatedly (6 or more times) mowing it to the ground during the growing season for consecutive years. If unsure of the correct disposal method, contact the Maine Cooperative Extension and get a specialist to design a removal plan for you. Herbicides such as glyphosate and triclopyr should be the last resort for removal of an invasive plant species, and should be discussed with a licensed pesticide applicator before application.

Preserving healthy environments for native plants is important in your garden but also in your community. Choose your plants shrewdly. Select native species when you can, and never introduce an invasive or potentially invasive plant. Remember, one invasive plant has a much farther reach than your backyard. By preventing the introduction of invasive plant species, you are an advocate for nature and her landscape.

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Seed Starting in the Greenhouse

A few weeks ago I started sowing seeds in my greenhouse. I am trying out a “new” seed tray that supposedly waters the cells from the bottom for 10 days.

I retrieved my seeds and all my cleaned propagation trays from last year. If you haven’t cleaned your trays or pots, check out how to do it here.

Then I filled the trays with some seed starting mix. You can either buy some organic seed mix at your local garden center or make your own like I do. It is important that you don’t use soil from your garden, it isn’t sterile, and usually includes weed seeds, which will compete with your seedling for resources.

My Seed-GrowingMix Recipe:

25% Fine Bark

25% Perlite

50% Coir

Now it is time to sow!

For very fine seeds, you can use a folded piece of paper to broadcast them or use a small seed sower.

Using either method ensures you don’t distribute too many seeds in one place. And as I am quite clumsy and lack any fine motor skills, I definitely need some assistance!

For some of the larger seeds, like Dill, I can do it by hand.

And for the many herb seeds I propagate, of which I probably plant way too many Basil (Ocimum basilicum) varieties, I cover with light layer (1/4″) of fine-grade vermiculite. Vermiculite is similar to perlite, it is made of mica and holds more water, allowing air and light to reach the seeds while maintaining moisture throughout germination.

In addition to culinary herbs, and veggies, I also like to start some other flowers under glass such as Sweet Peas, Poppies, Delphinium and Hollyhock, and transplant them outdoors once it gets warm enough. Aren’t Hollyhock seeds some of the prettiest seeds out there? I think they look like little shells! Just wait about 3 weeks, when the Hollyhock germinates!

And when I checked a few days ago I found that some of my seeds propagated quickly …

… while others like parsley (petroselinum crispum), dill (Anethum graveolens) and fennel (Foeniculum vulgare) will take a bit longer!

I hope all your seeds are sown and are germinating quickly!

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In My Garden

I just can’t wait to put on my old, weathered but well-loved wellies, get outside, dig in the dirt and garden! With the warm weather we’ve been experiencing, the bulbs are blooming, our perennials coming back to life and the trees are leafing out, telling us Spring is finally here!

The Man and I have been in our little cottage almost year now, and we are getting the chance to see what pops up in the garden! These hyacinths were incredible! There was a small clump of them under a tree in our backyard … I’ll be digging those bulbs up and moving them to a new home in the yard where I can enjoy them more!

And spring would not be complete with out the presence of some Forsythia. There are a few of these lining our driveway!

And a personal favorite of mine … Hydrangeas! Oh how I love them! If you plant the ‘Endless Summer’ or ‘Forever & Ever’ Hydrangea varieties, you will have blooms ALL summer long! Yes, I said ALL summer long!

Another one of my all-time favorites are … Peonies! I know they don’t look like much now, but just you wait till their leaves turn green, and their lovely blooms unfold!

A new favorite, courtesy of the previous owners, is this Flowering Quince!

What beautiful shrub, with some lovely blooms! As an early spring bloomer, and lush foliage throughout the summer you can’t go wrong with this one.

Some Heuchera coming up …

And some sedum! I love how the leaves caught droplets of water from the previous evening’s rain!

Hidden in a corner by the house are some lovely primroses! Which by the way, will also be transplanted to a new spot in the yard once I get my full design plan together!

What’s popping up and blooming in your garden?

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How to Dry Flowers …. In Your Microwave!

At April 25, 2012
By Kelly
In Country Living, Decorating, Dried Flowers
2

Yes, I said it … in the microwave! I promised last week when discussing how to dry flowers traditionally that I would share with you how to dry flowers in your microwave!

First, you must collect plants from your garden, or purchase some from the store. And it is best to condition your flowers before drying them.

By conditioning I mean, place your cut stems in some fresh water for at least a few hours to a day. This allows the plants to open a bit more and recover from the shock of cutting.

Next, cover the bottom of a microwave-safe container with silica gel beads, about 1/2 inch high (for larger flowers use 1-2 inches of silica in the bottom). Otherwise your flowers will dry in the shape of the bottom of the container.

Now place your flowers and stems in the container on top of the silica beads. Arrange them such that the blooms are facing upwards. Be liberal with the silica, use so that the flowers, petals and leaves are arranged to you liking. And bonus the silica beads can be reused!

Continue adding more silica beads to cover the flowers. Using the beads will help the flower heads maintain their cupped shape!

Once fully covered, it’s time to microwave!

When heating, leave the container uncovered in the microwave. Select a temperature about the defrost setting, and start experimenting with “cooking times.” Since different flowers dry at different rates, you can start heating at 30 second bursts to determine how much heat is required. Generally I find that it takes anywhere from 2-5 minutes depending on the type of flower. For example, roses are hardier than daisies, and thus prefer more heat.

Also, it may seem like a no brainer, but don’t ever reuse this microwave dish or anything that held the silica again for food.

Be careful and use potholders when removing container from microwaves, and let cool in a safe place.

Once the silica cools, you can carefully remove the flowers from the beads. Use a fine brush to remove the leftover silica and spray with hairspray. The hairspray serves two purposes: It helps hold the flower together and helps it maintain its color! An alternative to hairspray is an acrylic spray.

Now you can use fresh OR your newly dried flowers in arrangements, as gift decorations or any other project you can think of!

And if you missed it, last week I discussed how to dry your flowers the traditional way here!

Potting Up and Cleaning up Before Sowing Seed

Spring is such an exciting time in the garden, so much to do in the yard and in the greenhouse.

Before I begin sowing my new seeds, I like to make sure all my other tasks on my garden to do list is checked off.

1. Divide and pot up growing plants in larger pots.

I know that terracotta pots wick away a lot of moisture, but I can’t help that I adore these lovely, old pots! I just make sure to check the soil moisture regularly and water accordingly.

Side note on using terracotta pots: When the season is finished, or I repot a plant, it is essential to clean and sterilize the terracotta pots since after its use. You will notice that over the growing season a white crust collects on the outside of the pot, this is from salts in your water and fertilizers, and this needs to be removed before planting something new in the pot. Also, you don’t want to transfer any dormant disease, fungus or lingering minerals from the previous tenant. Due to the porous nature of the pot, the interior absorbs minerals from the soil and chemicals from the fertilizer. Scroll to the bottom to find out how to clean terracotta.

2. Clean up garden tools (if you haven’t already done so) and shed or greenhouse.

3. Make sure you have all your supplies ready (pots, trays, flats, soil, pertlite, compost, etc.)

4. Continue pruning and training plants that you have been growing inside or overwintered.

5. Start Sowing ( if you haven’t already!) I’ll be sharing some of my photos and a general how-to next week!

How-To Clean and Sanitize Terracotta Pots:

1. Remove old plants and soil (allowing the soil to dry will help you remove it from the pot), and use a stiff scrubber to clean out the pot interior. You can use a small amount of water to help clean out the pot, but do NOT use any soap as it will leave its own residue.

2. Create a ‘paste’ out of baking soda and water, spreading it over the white crust buildup that accumulated on the pot’s exterior, and gently scrub until the terracotta is cleam.

3. Let stand to dry completely before sanitizing.

4. Create a sanitizing bath (a large tub or basin can be used). Add water and bleach to the bath in a 10:1 ratio (10 parts water to one part bleach). Be conservative with the bleach!

5. Place terracotta plants in bath for 30 minutes (a little more if especially yucky!). You can use a sponge to remove any lingering soil. Be careful not to place hot pots in cold water, or vice versa, otherwise the temperature extremes will crack the clay.

5. Remove pots, and place in a water watch for 30 or more minutes to remove all the bleach.

6. Let stand to dry completely, and now your traditional, lovely clay pots are ready for a new growing season!

How to Dry Flowers

I love flowers so much, that I want to keep them around way past their expiration date. I use a variety of methods to drying my plants, including the traditional drying process, pressing and also microwave drying (for the more delicate blooms.)

First, I assess dryability of flowers. By this I mean, they must be healthy, strong, longer-lasting plants, with their flower heads just beginning to open up. If you attempt to dry a fully mature flower, more likely than not, you will lose precious petals and leaves.

Strawflowers are so perfect for Air Drying!

Your blooms will look best, and hold a richer color if you condition your flowers before you string them up. To condition your flowers, pick in late morning (if selecting from your own garden), and hydrate them in a vase for a few hours. Once perked up remove any excess foliage and cut stems to desired length (no shorter than 6″).

Buds are not fully open are ideal as flowers will continue to bloom as they dry.

Hang upside down in bunches, bound by string or rubber bands, out of sunlight in dark dry room/closet with good air circulation. Check in 2-3 weeks to see if fully dry.

Once dry, spray with hairspray, which helps hold everything together & protects against fading, and your dried flowers are ready!

You can use your dried flowers to decorate your home by handing them, arranging them in a vase, or use the leaves and petals for homemade potpourri or some other craft project.

Personally I enjoy arranging my traditional dried flowers in a vase, and displaying them on one of my many shabby dressers, out of direct sunlight of course!

Next week I will show you step-by-step how to dry your flowers in the microwave!

Book Review: The Organic Kitchen Garden by Juliet Roberts

I know this is a British Gardening book (Organic Kitchen Garden by Juliet Roberts) and I am an American, but this is one of my favorites and has become my Organic Kitchen Garden bible! I wish I could emphasize enough how wonderful this book is!

Now, I know some of you may say “But the book is about gardening in England!” And I would say, “No matter which garden book you pick up, you usually will have to make adjustments for your garden climate, unless the book is specific to your region.” This book is chock-full of information on fruit and vegetable gardening that is relevant where ever you live. And personally I enjoy perusing local bulb, seed and cutting catalogs throughout the winter, and deciding which varieties fit my needs and USDA garden zone. My choices are dependent on whether I will be canning it, using it in the kitchen fresh from the garden or as ornamental decoration.

Juliet (Roberts) and Mike (Thurlow) explain in simple terms how to start and care for your very own organic garden, from preparing your soil to crop harvest and rotation. Not only do they break down how to start an organic garden using some wonderful photography, but they also discuss how to grow specific fruits and vegetables. Using an 18th century walled kitchen garden of Audley End in Essex, England as an example, Juliet and Mike give great growing strategies, projects, helpful tips and a bit of history as well.

This book is even great for a gardening virgin – there is an entire section in the back that breaks down garden tasks by the month for the entire year to help newbies. It is easier to garden organically from the beginning rather than later on, this way you don’t pick up any bad habits that are hard to break! I’ve written a short blogging series about starting your own organic kitchen garden here.

Juliet (yes, I do talk as if we are on a first name basis – I think if we were ever to meet we would hit it off splendidly!) is the editor of the famous Gardens Illustrated magazine, and ! If you haven’t read an issue, pick one up – I promise it won’t be your last! And this book definitely doesn’t disappoint!

The Organic Kitchen Garden is an easy and enjoyable read with some super lovely photographs (by Gavin Kingcome) – the book is worth it, if just for the photographs!

Campanula, Trees and Eggs … Spring is Here!

At April 10, 2012
By Kelly
In Decorating, Growing & Gardening, Holiday Fun
2

I am in love with with the Blue Rose Campanula (Campanula cochlieariifolia ‘Elizabeth Oliver’) … she may be a rare variety but oh so pretty!

I tend to be a garden-geek, and as such you are more than likely to encounter flowers just about everywhere in my little cottage … in table and plate settings … in trees and nests …. just about anywhere you can imagine! I can’t help it, I know my interests aren’t that varied, I just love gardening, reading about gardening and being green!

A few years ago my mom’s feisty kitty thought it would be great fun to ‘play’ with her egg tree. Now for those of you who don’t know, my mom is super talented and hand painted little Easter vingettes on hollow eggs and we enjoyed them for years …. until her precocious kitten decided to bat them around the dining room!

Needless to say only 2 survived, but this year my crafty mom made some new ones and now our Easter Tree is full again!

You can visit my mom’s blog where she writes as Seaside CC to see some more of her crafty projects and her watercolor artwork!

Me … I’m more of an earthy kind of gal, who has an uncommon attachment to all things green (check out my boards on pinterest!) and these rare campanula (C. cochleariifolia) flowers are definitely something I am having a love affair with!